September Meeting: ​"Ten Top Sweater Tips Before I Cast On"

This month, our own Volunteer Coordinator Kim Winter stepped up to share her Tip Top Sweater Tips before casting on. As a knitting teacher herself, Kim is full of amazing information. Thank you, Kim, for sharing your expertise! Here are her tips, in her own words!

PKG Volunteer Coordinator Kim Winter shared her sweater secrets!

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1. Read the pattern repeatedly. I read tags and description on Ravelry. Do I know how it is knit? It helps me to visualize what I will be doing and when it will happen. I try not to panic if there is something I don’t understand. This is quite normal and usually when I “get there”, I know what to do or do the research to find out.  
2. Schematics-Finished Measurements. Depending on how it is knit, I often need finished: bust, total length from cast on to armhole, length from under the arm, circumference around (neckline, sleeve at widest point, wrist), total sleeve length, yoke depth, width across back and front. If none is available, I draw it out and put in the measurements I will need based on my swatch (stitch and row gauge). Depending on what type of sweater it is (outdoor football sweater, inside kick-around sweater, fancy party sweater, etc.), I know the length I prefer based on how I like my sweaters to fit.  
3. Size-Ease. These two are critical issues. In discussing size with my students I stress the finished bust measurement number. For example, it doesn’t help if designer only lists the size as XS, when the finished bust measurement is 52”. The size “word” only is for brevity’s sake, in my opinion and I think knitters should get comfortable with the number they are making. In addition, ease is very important. Ease listed in a pattern is defined as the amount of room a sweater will have based on the design. For example an outer wear sweater will usually have 4 inches of “positive” ease so if your bust measurement is 38” inches, the design is meant to look like the picture if you make it with 4 more inches. Thus you would be knitting the 42” size. If the design calls for “zero” or “negative” ease, this means that the sweater will be form fitting or will fit like a close T-shirt.
4. Techniques used. I read the designer’s abbreviations. They may differ from what I know and even what the designer stated. I generally follow the way the designer lists the techniques even if I know how to do it a different way. I love it when designers include video tutorials to describe the techniques.
5. Look for any errata. Errata is defined as errors on the pattern. It can most often be found on the Ravelry page or on the designer or publisher’s website. However if the pattern is newer, it may not be listed there. I read the designer’s comments and chat thread to look for it. Once I do, I WRITE IT ON MY PATTERN!
6. Look at finished projects on Ravelry where people are wearing the sweater, especially those folks who have a similar body type. I analyze the photos. I especially look at necklines, arm areas and bust. I want to see if the neck rides up or sits lower than my taste. I want to see if there is too much or little room at the arm to body join. I want to see if it fits too tight in the bust. I also look at color motifs and symmetry. This helps me decide what size will look acceptable on me.
7.  Read comments and “helpful projects” on finished garments on Ravelry. If the designer has a group, I read that thread. I read everything there is to read about the sweater beforehand. 
8. SWATCH until I get stitch gauge. I do the math if I don’t. I write it all on the pattern: size, yarn used, row gauge, needles used. Swatching gives me more information than just stitch and row gauge. It shows me how much or little drape the sweater will have and if I like the color combinations, if doing a color work sweater. 
9. Start a Ravelry page with all listed above. 
10. I circle all my numbers in pencil and cross out sections that are not my  size. I do this in pencil because once I begin; I may change my mind about the size and start again. It is easier to do this to if all I have to do is erase.

Once I have begun my sweater, I keep the pattern, all the yarn and needles in the same project bag. If I need that needle for another project, I never put it on another needle but instead put the sweater wip on waste yarn or just a needle holder. I make copious notes on my project and even will put a note to myself as to where I left off in case I don’t get back to my project in a timely manner. 
 
They say an average sweater takes 30-60 hours to complete. The ten hints listed above usually take me under an hour and by doing this “homework”, I knit successful and wearable sweaters. I encourage you to delve into the world of sweater knitting! It is so much fun!

Thank you, Kim!

Join us next time, October 10, with JC Briar.